Most bumper scuffs and short cracks are a weekend DIY job: weld or glue the crack from behind, fill, then prime and paint.

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Tools I used

Tool	Why you need it	Link
Plastic welder kit (hot staples)	Rebuilds strength across the crack from behind	Check price →
Flexible bumper filler	Regular body filler cracks on flexible plastic	Check price →
Adhesion promoter	Without it, primer peels off bare plastic	Check price →
Dual-action (DA) sander + 180/320/600 discs	Feathers the edges smooth	Check price →
Filler primer (aerosol)	Fills sanding scratches	Check price →
Touch-up paint + clear, matched to your paint code	The colour coat	Search on Amazon →
Wax & grease remover, masking tape, paper	Prep and protection	Check price →

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Steps

Wash the bumper, then wipe the area with wax and grease remover.
If it's cracked, pop the bumper off or reach behind it. Stitch the crack with hot staples every 1–2 cm.
On the front, V-groove the crack slightly with 180 grit so filler has something to grab.
Sand the scuffed area with 180, then feather the edges out with 320.
Apply flexible filler in thin layers. Let it cure, then block sand smooth with 320.
Mask well past the repair. Spray adhesion promoter on any bare plastic.
Spray 2–3 coats of filler primer. Wet sand with 600 once dry.
Spray colour in light coats, extending each coat a little past the last one to blend.
Finish with 2–3 coats of clear. Wait a week before polishing.

Your paint code is on a sticker in the driver's door jamb. Never guess the colour.
Spray in a warm, dry spot (around 20 °C). Cold and damp equals runs and haze.
Light coats every time. A run in the clear coat takes longer to fix than the whole repair.